I've been gobbling pizza for more decades than I care to count, and only in New York, Chicago, Boston and Naples have I eaten pizza better than Vinnie's. Maybe it's the crust that makes these pizzas so good, or perhaps the quality of the cheeses and sauces. Most likely, both.

The crust is thin, but not the papery, tasteless thin of chain-store pizzerias. This crust is hearty, flavorful, and delicious. And it's a double plus for me, since I adore white pizza, with no sauce, just cheese, but a pizza like this requires a great crust. White pizza also demands quality cheese, and here, it's top notch Parmesan, mozzarella (I'd bet home made) and ricotta. A few herbs add the required fillip to the luscious platter.

Of course, I often go for tomato based pizza too. Garnish it with Italian sausage, fresh mushrooms, and perhaps a sprinkling of fresh green peppers, and I'm in a kind of Neapolitan swoon. Sometimes, I'll opt for anchovies and sun-dried tomatoes, another favorite. Whatever toppings you like, you'll probably find them on Vinnie's extensive list.

Calzones, the big, fat pillows of crust filled with the same selection of goodies that top a pizza, are a big favorite of many of my heartiest-eating friends.

The spinach salad with feta simply cannot be beat.

The City Market setting is ideal for dining, people-watching, meeting friends. And although during the height of dinner hour, the lines may look long, they move quickly and you rarely have long to wait. During the wait, it's altogether pleasant to savor the location and see how many friends you spot. Celebrities, too, from time to time.

Prices are moderate; the beer selection extensive; house wines are good and affordable. What more could a pizza lover want? Free delivery? Yes, in the Historic District. -- CS Questions? Comments? Email Cima.

Vinnie VanGoGo's
317 W. Bryan St.
233-6394
Hours: Daily -- 4pm to 11:30pm. Friday 4pm to 1am. Sunday Noon to 11:30pm.
Pizza $9 to $11 (on average)
Beer & Wine