We pull into the parking area with trepidation. But food loving friends have recommended this place for some time, and we’re in the neighborhood and our stomachs are singing of hunger, so……

Bright colors and sweet potato images abound. Happy Family Kitchen with A Bunch of Kids screams the décor. Service is quick. A menu appears.

I’m intrigued by one of the specials, Grilled Trout, pecan-crusted with a Peach Salsa. Since trout is among my favorite fish and one that’s tricky to cook, I figure this the ultimate test of any eatery. Years of ordering trout whenever it’s on the menu have resulted in a handful out of dozens of versions that were worthy of this fine fish.

One bite of this thick, perfectly grilled, wondrously seasoned, pleasantly thick filet serves as an injection of pure pleasure! A second bite confirms the first, and from then on, it’s difficult to focus on anything else.

Nevertheless, I sample my companion’s Fried Fresh Water Catfish, delightfully fresh, delicate and flaky. We’ve found a winner in this little homey kitchen spot!

Another surprise in this Southern eatery is the lack of grease or fat. It appears that not an ounce of lard has invaded. The sides are treasures in themselves. Of course, there are collard greens, but here seasoned with lemon not pork fat. Black-eyed peas, sweet potatoes (natch!), corn pudding all grace the menu, but in lighter, more delicate forms than in any other soul food place. And if there are other Southern spots where you can find a side of roasted Brussels sprouts or sweet peas or chilled fresh asparagus, I haven’t run into them.

We try the tomatoes vinaigrette, the cucumber vinaigrette, Brussels sprouts and dilled lima beans. All light, fresh, delicious.

A shared peach cobbler proves in keeping with this excellent menu, and we depart, vowing to return soon again!

Don’t miss this little treasure! -- CS

Sweet Potatoes
6825 Waters Ave. (at Eisenhower Dr.)
352-3434
Entrees: $6.50 – 10.50
Beer & Wine
Open for lunch & dinner 11 am to 9 pm
Daily except Sunday