When I moved to Savannah eleven years ago, my thoughts soon turned to the provisions of Italy. Someone suggested Il Pasticcio. It had recently opened and occupied a small area of a good-sized room it shared with its bakery.

First visit, I ordered the simplest, and often riskiest, of meals. A green salad vinaigrette and linguini in white clam sauce. The wafted scent of fresh greens promised delicacy even before the first bite, which proved the freshness and the experienced hand of a chef who uses fine vinegar, good grade virgin olive oil, and just an airbrush of salt, pepper and herbs.

The linguine took me straight back to Genoa, where the clams seem to leap from sea to platter, the garlic was subtle, the oil from Tuscany and the pasta perfectly al dente, firm enough for a bite but without the rock hard center produced by cooks who mistake al dente for “jawbreaker.”

I’ve watched the restaurant grow into one of Savannah’s largest and busiest, often called THE place to be seen, without losing a soupcon of its culinary excellence. It’s been named one of the top 10 Italian restaurants in America (USA Today), and among best restaurants in the South (Southern Living).

Over the years, my favorites have evolved, mostly centering on fish or seafood, pasta or veal. I rarely resist the lobster filled ravioli. The homemade pasta pillows plumped with lobster and anointed with pink champagne cream sauce are simply sublime. Offered as an appetizer, the dish serves as an entrée if I’m not terribly hungry. Other delectable appetizers are the skillet-roasted mussels in white wine, the beef carpaccio, the asparagus baked with prosciutto, parmigiano and mozzarella.

Salads in various permutations abound. It’s hard to choose, but I’d say my favorite is the arugula and artichoke.

Fish of the Day is a great bet. It’s not for nothing that a lot of Savannahians call Il Pasticcio the best fish restaurant in town. The stuffed trout provides surefire pleasure.

Some of Savannah’s best, tender, milk-fed veal is here, and the veal chop is number one in my book, followed closely by the delicious grilled lamb chops. For beef, the superb filet mignon encrusted in gorgonzola.

And there are lovely specials every day.

It’s rare that I have room for dessert, but when I do, it’s tiramisu or crème brulee. Buon Appetito!

Il Pasticcio
2 East Broughton St.
231-8888
Entrees: $18 to $32
Opens Daily at 5:30; till 10:30 Mon-Th., 11:30 Fri-Sat., 9:30 Sun.
Full bar & extensive wine list
Reservations recommended