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Welcome to Savannah, America's Most Beautiful City
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By Cima Star |
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Eos, named for the Greek “Goddess of the New Dawn,” burst into bloom in Thomas Square early in May. Owners Shelley Smith and Brian Torres transformed a formerly non-descript little soul-food take-out place (originally a bank building) into a delightful small-plate Food and Wine Bar bursting with casually sophisticated décor and charming interior, plus an outdoor patio for al fresco dining beloved by so many. Combined with a menu to delight the most discriminating diner and a wine list designed for the true wine connoisseur.
I’ve returned often since that opening weekend with nary a disappointment. For those of us with relatively small appetites, who love good food, and lots of flavors, this “small plate” concept rapidly catching fire here in Savannah is perfect. The Wild Georgia Shrimp & Somen Noodle Salad appetizer is a favorite now. Not because the shrimp is good—as long as you’re using the Wild Georgia version, it is nearly always good. But rarely perfect. Shrimp’s a forgiving little morsel, difficult for a careful cook to ruin. But challenging to get perfect. A few seconds too long or too little cooking, and it’s either a tad too firm or soft. This little gem is always to-the-second right. The green tea noodles dressed in honey and sake elevate it to food for the heavens. Among the entrée-style small plates, another lovely example of a superior hand in the kitchen is the Prince Edward Mussels. Sautéed with white wine, grape tomatoes and caviar, the delicate flavor of the mussels is enhanced but in no way overpowered. The Beef Wellington, a deconstructed buttery tenderloin with apple-smoked bacon and mushroom duxelle shines in a light pastry, served with shallot whipped potatoes and garlic flavored fresh, spring asparagus. Another tribute to the chef is the Duck Dumplings, a duck confit served with gnocchi and cherry tomatoes in white wine and the chef’s herb butter. Weekend brunch is sumptuous. The namesake, The New Dawn, consists of two sunny side up eggs, served with sautéed shitake mushrooms and fresh, warmed spinach, pan roasted tomatoes, and luscious grill-toasted sourdough. The eggs are as eggs should be: fresh! Personally, the mushrooms and spinach alone could provide a heavenly lunch; same for the pan-roasted tomatoes, so good and fresh they taste like bright bursts of sunshine. The Salmon BLT, served on a fresh croissant with bacon, lettuce, tomato, and a caper aioli with a salad is superior: the grilled salmon sheer perfection. In fact, all of Eos’ salmon dishes border on the divine. Although I try my best to order something different each time, some dishes are simply too delicious to resist ordering again and again. The Smoked Salmon Salad, with goat cheese and capers over local greens, red onions, asparagus, with citrus vinaigrette and dill-lemon yogurt is one. Another is the Chicken Francaise, normally a prosaic sort of dish, here perfectly pan-fried tender chicken with an artichoke, tomato & caper white wine sauce over aromatic jasmine rice. Among meatier dishes is the Pernil, a truly amazing Puerto Rican slow-roasted pork dish served over smokey gouda grits and topped with roasted cherry tomatoes. I’ve eaten a lot of pork in my time, but never a dish so tender and aromatic as this one. I could go on and on with other dishes I’ve loved here, but must stop somewhere. One thing that no fish or seafood lover should miss is their “Russo’s Fresh Catch of the day. All are excellent. My own favorite of the summer was the Soft Shelled Crabs, served over Black-Eyed Peas, Mushrooms and Collard Green Risotto. Crabs never get better than this! Desserts change daily…I rarely have room for one, but my companions often do, and I’ve heard nothing but raves. -- CS
Questions? Comments? Email Editor@SavannahBest.com.
EOS |
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