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Welcome to Savannah, America's Most Beautiful City
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By Cima Star |
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First came the amuse, a surprise slice of Andouille sausage, topped with caramelized onions and piquant seasonings. The two of us sighed and smiled in unison and looked at each other, clinking glasses. We were here to celebrate 46 years of, among other things, marital munchies. I’ve often wondered if it were food or animals or books that bonded me and Jack within weeks of meeting 50 years ago. All three, I’d guess.
Our shared appetizer, Southern Oysters Bienville, arrived. Baked on the half shell with grilled Andouille sausage, Apple Wood bacon, crayfish, and Georgia Wild Shrimp, the oysters were anointed with a lemon-basil aioli and lemon wedges. I’ve eaten more than my share of oysters over the years, and know that cooking—baking, steaming or roasting—an oyster without overcooking is an art of fine timing. These sweet, plump oysters, blended with a combination of sweet and savory tastes, proved a perfect start to a celebratory dinner. Chef Chris’ house salad, also shared, came next. Here the sweet and savory theme is repeated in a mixture of baby mesclun greens, sun dried tomatoes, Kalamatas, Manchego cheese, topped with spiced, candied hazelnuts. The croutons, however, are the crowning touch, fashioned out of Parmesan tomato-flavored stone ground grits. The first dish I ever ate here was braised lamb shank. In other restaurants it can run the gamut from greasy and overcooked to sublime. At Alligator Soul, it is always sublime. So that’s what I ordered this time. Slowly braised with ancho sage and orange, served over orzo with peas and char-grilled baby romaine, the lamb was finished with a Mediterranean tomato and pepper sauce with goat cheese and mint. Garnished with pistachios and dried dates, the dish was country-earthy and cosmopolitan, sweet and savory, yin and yang. Jack ordered Diver Scallops. I love this too – a ménage of honey-sage butter seared large, plump scallops rest upon a puree of caramelized onions and white beans with roasted spaghetti squash and char-braised radicchio. Garnished with spicy candied bacon and toasted pecans, this dish calls out for romance. As he ate, Jack looked rather like a purring cat. Choosing which entrée here is never easy. I’ve been indulging in Alligator Soul’s sensuous and imaginative seasonal menus ever since it opened about eight years ago. It’s a place where I often wish I could eat course after course like the ancient Romans did. Shrimp and Grits is another favorite of mine. Like many converted Yankees, I’d never even heard of the dish till I moved to Savannah. Here, it’s Creole spiced Georgia Wild Shrimp, silken and creamy, sautéed in lemon butter and served over Georgia Stone Ground Grits with Tasso Ham and cheddar cheese, then garnished with scallions. It rates my vote for the best shrimp and grits in Savannah. Even among the staples of the menu, sauces, seasonings, accompaniments and garnishes change seasonally, benefiting from what is freshest in the local market. Over the years, I’ve eaten most of them, from their sensational Shrimp Gumbo, to soups, appetizers and entrees. Some of my favorites have been tenderloin of beef, the best veal in town, lamb, venison, chicken and wild boar. Duck breast is a big favorite, always tender and succulent. Vegetarians find contentment here, too. There’s always a luscious-sounding entrée, plus plenty of appetizers, soups and salads for the veggie-only crowd (of which owner Maureen Craig is one). Desserts are often seasonal too. The Crème Brulee, Banana Beignets, Bread Pudding and Chocolate Torte are popular. And there’s an excellent and modestly priced wine list. Overall, the combination of superb cuisine, excellent service, lovely ambiance and value for the dollar, make Alligator Soul the finest of fine dining!
Alligator Soul Questions? Comments? Email Editor@SavannahBest.com.
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